Cambiocavallo

Small, boutique agritourism hotel Cambiocavallo is in Sicily’s south-east corner, just 4km from the beach and about 14km from Modica, on the route connecting it to the sea. Centuries ago, this important trade route was the one used by merchants, who would come from the vast grain growing areas of central Sicily, to bring their grain to the “granaio” tower at Pozzallo, to be collected by ships for export. On their return journey, always an essential stop for the merchants was Cambiocavallo (meaning change your horse), where they would eat and rest the horses and themselves. Agritourism Hotel Cambiocavallo is no less hospitable nowadays, continuing the tradition of a warm welcome, genuine hospitality and great food and wine.

A renowned and talented Sicilian architect, saw Cambiocavallo and instantly knew what he wanted to do with it. His ambition was to produce a real jewel of a boutique hotel, emphasising the traditional Sicilian, but also making it contemporary. His incredible restoration work on the wonderful Noto Cathedral, a castle in Modica and a church in Ispica is admirable all over the world. So, Cambiocavallo was something for himself, done from the heart and it shows.

Cambiocavallo’s structure is typical of an 18th century Sicilian coaching inn, with a traditionally tiled roof, lots of exposed stone, bamboo cane and beamed ceilings inside and a sheltered baglio courtyard, at its centre. Washes of terracotta and ochres grace the walls and the blues change with the day’s light and shadows, from pale lavender to indigo blue. Furnishings and fabrics are modern, bold and minimalist, providing a high spec feel. Cambiocavallo’s Arab and Mediterranean gardens are a delight. Palms, fruit trees, ancient olive trees, fig and lavenders are the backdrop for a pretty swimming pool. Outside of the immediate garden, the land is rural, left to its natural state of Sicilian grasses. The lounge and breakfast room are absolutely charming, but quite honestly, almost as far south as you can get in Sicily, it is usually the courtyard, which is the chosen space for breakfast and dining.

Dinner is freshly cooked, often from Cambiocavallo’s own garden, and what is fresh and local. There is a choice of meat, fish or vegetarian and whatever you choose will be delicious. In the sheltered baglio, with a carob tree in the middle, by candlelight, and with some of the most delicate and tasty food you could ever wish for. To dine under the stars, by candle-light, in the lovely baglio courtyard; to savour the delicate and tasty dishes; to see the striking colours change with light and shadow; it’s such a treat. Here at Long Travel, we just love it.